How it works
This ocean wave diagram, labeled part by part, shows a wave in deep water and then waves reaching a beach. Read the names, tap a part for one line about it, then quiz yourself or print it blank.
Read the full guide
Out at sea
The crest is the highest part of a wave and the trough the lowest. Wave height is measured between them, and wavelength from one crest to the next. Under the surface the water moves in circles that shrink with depth and end at the wave base.
At the shore
Swell is the low, even waves that arrive from far away. Where the sea is shallower than the wave base, the waves slow down, bunch up and grow until one falls forward as a breaker. Broken water fills the surf zone, runs up the beach as swash and back down as backwash.
- A floating bird bobs in a circle as each wave passes. It is not carried along with the wave.
Questions and answers
What are the parts of an ocean wave?
Crest, trough, wavelength and wave height are read off the wave itself. Under it are the orbital motion of the water and the wave base. At the shore come swell, the breaker, the surf zone, swash and backwash.
Why do waves break near the shore?
In shallow water the bottom of a wave drags on the sea floor and slows down. The waves bunch together and grow taller until the top outruns the base and falls forward as a breaker.
Does the water move forward with an ocean wave?
Hardly at all in deep water. A wave carries energy, not water. As it passes, the water moves in a circle and ends up close to where it began.
What is the difference between swash and backwash?
Swash is the water that rushes up the beach after a wave breaks. Backwash is the same water running back down the beach to the sea.