How it works
These are the parts of a shirt as a shirtmaker names them, on a long-sleeved button-up shirt from the front and the back. Start with the 7 main parts, then the small ones a tailor or factory uses.
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Collar and front
The collar is two pieces: the stand, a band that circles the neck, and the collar leaf folded over it, ending in the collar points. Down the front runs the placket, the strip holding the buttons and buttonholes. The top button is drawn undone to show its hole.
Back and sleeves
Across the shoulders at the back sits the yoke, the piece the whole shirt hangs from. Under it a back pleat gives room to move. Above each cuff a sleeve placket, or gauntlet, opens so the hand can pass through.
- A gusset is the small triangle at the foot of each side seam, where the curved hem climbs; it stops the seam tearing open.
Questions and answers
What is the yoke on a shirt?
The piece of fabric across the back of the shoulders, joining the collar to the back and fronts. It makes the shirt hang from the shoulders rather than the neck.
What is the difference between the collar and the collar stand?
The stand is the upright band that circles the neck and is sewn to the shirt. The collar, or leaf, is sewn to the stand and folds down over it.
What is a placket on a shirt?
The strip of fabric down the front opening, where the buttonholes and buttons fasten. The opening above each cuff is also a placket: the sleeve placket, or gauntlet.